Valle Aurina, Alto Adige: Its Treasures from Food to Health

By Massimo Terracina

Alto Adige, or Südtirol if you prefer, is a haven of beauty, both natural and often hidden in well-known and lesser-known valleys. The Aurina Valley (Ahrntal) is one of the province of Bolzano’s lesser-known gems, boasting significant culinary, welcoming, and health-related treasures.

In October 2023, the Valley was awarded for hosting the Best Food and Wine Event in Italy, known as the "Valle Aurina Cheese Project." This event, promoted by the Valle Aurina and Campo di Tures Tourist Association, is dedicated to Graukäse (gray cheese).

Martin Pircher, an ambassador of Aurina Valley cheeses who proudly calls himself a "cheese sommelier," is a prominent advocate for this niche local product. He is a testament to the valley's purity. The biennial cheese festival and the Graukäse-themed days he promotes highlight this unique Slow Food-presidium cheese, the craft of local cheesemakers, and the valley's stories and curiosities. Starting in September, you can immerse yourself in a world of dairy excellence with themed menus, tastings, and a rich calendar of excursions. In winter, the Ski & Cheese program lets you discover cheeses in refuges on the slopes.

In San Giovanni, Martha Hirner runs a farm where she produces this wonderful cheese herself. With milk from two cows housed a few meters from the farm, Martha expertly processes it to create precious wheels of cheese weighing around 2 to 2.5 kg (some are now made under half a kilo for easier commercial handling). This ancient method of sustenance provides women with a little extra income.

About 12 liters of milk are needed to make a 2 kg wheel. Martha's farm, dedicated to purity and natural production, produces around four wheels a week, sold in the shop for about 20 euros per kg.

The process of making Graukäse is simple yet effective. Its name could also be linked to the dialect word "grab," meaning "raw, basic, without frills," referencing its consistency. This cheese is found in various Tyrolean locations (East Tyrol, Zillertal, Inn Valley) and Alto Adige (Valle Aurina and its side valleys, Wipptal). It is a recovery product made traditionally with skimmed cow's milk left over after butter production, resulting in a low-fat cheese with a fat content of less than 2%. Notably, no rennet is used; coagulation is achieved through acidification.

It is fascinating to watch Martha handle the milk pot to extract the Graukäse wheels, representing a wonderful dairy reality that Pircher promotes in every way possible.

Across the large meadow, near the river and the state road, is "gustAhr," a microbrewery helmed by Carlo Castlunger. A former chef of 20 years, Castlunger has applied his passion for experimentation to the four varieties of beer produced here, using cutting-edge machinery but with ancient dedication and passion.

“I have been involved with beer for many years, continuously educating myself and refining my taste,” explains Castlunger. “With passion and creativity, I am full of enthusiasm and enjoy trying new things. For me, producing beer is not just a job but a vocation. This dedication is shared by other local brewers, so much so that 11 of us came together to create a South Tyrolean beer born from our experiences.” He continues, “The gustAhr philosophy is born from the meeting of tradition and modernity, the union of passion and refinement, never losing sight of the love for beer and using only carefully selected ingredients. By focusing on the excellence of local products and artisanal skill, we create sincere, authentic beers. Each beer is unique, with its own character that captivates from the first sip."

The defunct Predoi copper mine, now part of the Provincial Mining Museum, continues to make an incredible contribution to the valley. The mine saw its peak exploitation around 600 years ago and, after closing in the 1970s, was revitalized thanks to a chamber located in the heart of the mountain. The San Ignazio tunnel takes you nearly a kilometer into the mountain, where the rooms of the former mine now serve as a unique refuge of peace and relaxation in Italy. The high humidity of the air retains particles and allergens, making the air pure and clear, creating the ideal environment for respiratory treatments.

You reach the refuge via a quiet ride on the mine train through the narrow tunnel. Here, thanks to the exceptional air quality, you will find not only peace but also significant relief for respiratory diseases and allergies. During the two-hour stay in this special microclimate, expert staff guide you through a "sound bath" designed for meditation (focusing solely on well-being, not introspection or philosophy), and relaxation based on yoga techniques.